Jan 2018 Liposomes – transdermal system
One of the biggest challenges in the skin care is the delivery of active ingredients directly into the skin. It is known that the properties of a cosmetic result not only from the active ingredients it contains, but also from an efficient use of these substances.
Skin barrier
The outermost layer of the skin is called stratum corneum and it is the main barrier separating the human body from environment. Because of it many cosmetic ingredients can work only on the surface of the skin, e.i. water soluble substances can’t pass through the epidermal barrier at all.
The stratum corneum is built of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. The skin because of it can provide its protecting features as a barrier against harmful environmental factors. Defensive properties of stratum corneum inhibit the skin penetration.
It is known that the more of an active ingredient penetrates the stratum corneum barrier in an appropriate concentration, the more efficient a cosmetic is. In recent years in cosmetology, modern technologies of active ingredient encapsulation have been used more and more frequently in transporting active substances into the skin. Liposomes are most commonly used for this purpose.
Liposomes filled with active ingredients, can overcome the epidermal barrier and introduce the desired substances into the deeper layers of the skin.
Liposomes – how do they work?
Liposomes (“lipo” – fat, “soma” – body) are small water bubbles with a size of (0.01-1.0 microns) surrounded by a double lipid layer. The main task of it is to transport a variety of biologically active compounds.
Liposome consists of double lipid layer built of phospholipids and cholesterol, which encloses active ingredients.
Liposomes are formed spontaneously from phospholipids in an aqueous environment and are filled with a small amount of the aqueous solution from which they are formed. In association with the fact that the arrangement of phospholipids in liposomes is similar to the structure of a cell membrane, liposomes are able to penetrate deeper in the dermis. Thanks to this property it is possible to introduce active substances through subsequent layers of the epidermis.
The liposomes used in cosmetic preparations play a dual role:
1 – they progressively release the active ingredients found in them;
2 – they penetrate the deeper layers of the skin.
Liposomes penetrate the stratum corneum and release active ingredients directly into the deeper layers of the skin.
These characteristics of liposomes make them ideal for the transport of sparingly soluble substances and the release of these substances in the desired location.
The properties of the modern liposomal encapsulation technology have been used in the creation and development of Pharmann’s cosmeceutical technology. Thanks to this, the active substances contained in the products more effectively penetrate the stratum corneum of the dermis – as a result, the products are more effective and efficient. The effects are more visible.